Tuesday, December 23, 2025

Cruising the Nile in the winter

At the age 17, mystery novel author Agatha Christie spent the winter of 1907–1908 with her mother in Egypt. They stayed for three months at the Gezirah Palace hotel in Cairo, participated in social events and visited some of Egypts ancient monuments. 

Christie would visit Egypt again later, and write several Egypt-set novels, including Death on the Nile featuring detective Hercule Poirot.



The Nile Express Steamers Co. 
5 founder shares, Cairo, 1906  
Printed in Cairo by Baader & Gross 

The Express Nile Steamers Company (ENSCo) was organized in April 1906 with a capital of 30000 Egyptian pounds. The company offered Nile cruises to rich Westerners, and Britons in particular. ENSCo's trip from Cairo to Luxor took 7 days, back in 4.5 days. And within a year the route was extended from Luxor to Aswan taking another two days.



ENSCo's first ship was launched at Giza on 14 Nov 1906. Miss Bassie Ems, the daughter of the company's director general, baptised the 'America' graciously. The triple decked vessel with cabins for 54 first-class passengers featured saloons for dining and smoking. Passengers enjoyed the Nile views behind glass windows that shielded them from wind and cold. 

In 1908 Baedeker publishes its Egypt and The Sudan, Handbook for Travellers. The book includes tips for traveling aboard a Nile steamer: 

"Passengers by steamer should beware of the risk of catching cold by leaving the windows of their cabin open ; and it is well to remember (e.g. when shaving) that the steamers sometimes run aground, especially above Luxor. Liability to delay through this last fact makes it impossible to be sure of reaching Cairo in time to make connection with the ocean-steamers."
Exciting times, if you ask me! I wonder whether Agatha Christie got bored on her three-month stay. I would have gone on a cruise. Did she? Well, that's a question that only Mr Hercule Poirot could solve. 

Merry Christmas!

F.L.

References

  • Launch of the America, Egyptian Gazette (1906-11-15) 
  • Egypt and the Sûdân; handbook for travellers, 1914, Karl Baedeker 

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